Chinês Clandestino

Lisbon’s Illegal Chinese Food Scene

Tucked down the winding roads of the multi-ethnic Mouraria neighbourhood you’ll find some of the oldest architecture in Lisbon. Mostly untouched by the 1755 earthquake, these buildings add a unique charm to the narrow and picturesque streets not seen elsewhere, but once the sun goes down, there’s another side to Mouraria.

The tourist filled, sun soaked streets now give way to dark alleyways where the prominent language isn’t Portuguese. Pretty tiles and unique buildings are no longer the sight you’re looking for, but red lanterns hanging from residential buildings.

For the enterprising Chinese immigrants in Portugal, these lights tell those in the know that a business is run here. These are the illegal Chinese restaurants, unlicenced and run out of an apartment.

A group of trusting Remotes let me lead them down a few dark alleys, before settling on one with 4 bright lanterns shining on the facade of a rundown building. We ring an oversized bell, clearly added to the building for this purpose and enter the dark complex after a buzz. Walking up a graffiti tagged stairwell we come to a landing with an open door. Where you might expect living room furniture, you see dining tables and chairs instead.

I don’t know what I was expecting, but this was a surprise. It was brightly lit, smelled delicious and random signs and Chinese art dotted the walls, like any Chinese restaurant back home. Just like home, we were handed poorly translated menus and a pad of paper to fill out with our selections. Between the 7 of us, we ordered 9 dishes to share, and they were all amazing! Even more impressively, everything is cooked in a small kitchen on a two burner stove! Inside, you almost forget that you’re actually in a home and not a real restaurant.

Despite being an illegal establishment, it was great, and I can’t wait to try another one!